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Skin Care
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AHAs (Alpha hydroxy acids)
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Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are obtained from fruits such as lemons, grapes, and apples, as well as sugar cane and sour milk. AHAs can help to improve oily skin, prevent spots, reduce acne scars, improve the skin's texture and radiance and treat fine lines and wrinkles.
The outermost layer of our skin, the epidermis, is constantly regenerated, with dead cells flaking off during washing, allowing cells from below the epidermis to surface. However, factors such as pollution, sun, air-conditioning and age can slow down the regeneration process, causing dead cells to accumulate and making skin dry and dull. AHAs work by promoting the shedding of the dead cells and encouraging renewal, making skin look smooth and radiant. Some people may find that AHAs cause mild irritation and make the skin sensitive to sunlight.
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Anti-oxidant
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Anti-oxidants are naturally occurring substances, including vitamins A, C and E, minerals, and amino acids found in selected fruits, vegetables and dietary supplements. These nutrients help to protect and repair the body's organs and skin against damage caused by free radical attack. Examples include grape seed extract, green algae (flavonoids), lycopene (beta-carotene), ginseng, liquorice, rosemary, juniper, lipoic acid and alpha-linoleic acid. The strongest known natural antioxidants are ginkgo biloba and green tea.
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A.O.C.
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Appellation d'Origine Controlee - a mark of quality on essential oils.
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Beta-carotene
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An anti-oxidant vitamin that can help fight the effects of damaging free radical activity.
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BHAs (Beta hydroxy acids)
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Beta hydroxy acids have the same effect as AHAs; i.e., they chemically exfoliate the top layer of skin. However, they are less irritating and come from different sources.
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Botanicals
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Plant-based or plant-derived ingredients.
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Camomile
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A herb with superb purifying, soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
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Ceramides
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A ceramide is a natural skin component that acts as a seal between skin cells. A good supply is essential to ensure skin keeps moisture in and pollutants out. Ceramides can be produced synthetically and added to skincare products.
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Collagen
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The protein fibres found in the dermis of the skin. With age, these fibres degenerate and skin starts to sag. A synthetic variant is added to some moisturisers to help soften the appearance of fine lines.
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Dermis
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The layer of skin foundbeneath the epidermis, where collagen and elastin lie.
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Echinacea
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An anti-inflammatory herb that helps promote cell renewal. Herbalists use it for its ability to help skin disorders such as acne, eczema and psoriasis.
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Elastin
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Fibres in the underlying layers of the skin that help give it strength and elasticity.
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Emollient
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Usually a grease or an oil that softens the skin and protects it from dryness. The emollients in moisturisers come from animal, vegetable, or mineral sources. Common ones are allantoin, cocoa butter, lanolin, squalene, castor oil, plant or vegetable oil, mineral oil, and fatty alcohols. |
Epidermis
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The outermost layer of the skin. The thickness of the epidermis varies: the soles of the feet and palms of the hands are comparatively thick, whereas the face, neck, and eyelids are very thin. |
Evening Primrose Oil
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An essential oil used to treat eczema, psoriasis, and dry, ageing skin.
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Exfoliation
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The removal of the superficial layer of dead skin cells and pore-clogging debris, usually using either scrubs or AHAs.
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Free radicals
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According to the anti-oxidant theory of cell decay, sunlight generates oxygen-containing molecules called free radicals. They are also caused by UV rays as well as chemicals, pollution, fatigue, stress, cigarette smoke and alcohol. Free radicals attack the skin's surface, ageing exposed and unprotected skin. If left uninterrupted, they proceed further down to damage collagen and elastin fibres, breaking down the support structure of the skin. This results in lines and wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of elasticity - the obvious signs of prematurely aged skin.
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Grape seed
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A powerful natural fighter of free-radical damage, with soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
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Green Tea
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Contains anti-oxidants that neutralise the free radicals that damage the skin, especially during sun exposure.
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Non-comedogenic
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Refers to products that won't cause skin breakouts, because they do not plug the pores of the skin. Non-comedogenic products are especially beneficial to acne sufferers or people with oily skin.
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Panthenol
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Also known as pro-vitamin B5, panthenol is essential for the normal functioning of the skin. A penetrating moisturiser, it has anti-inflammatory benefits, helps stimulate cellular renewal and is said to help with wound healing. It's also commonly used in hair conditioners to fill in cracks in the hair shaft and strengthen the hair.
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pH
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The pH scale measures the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, with neutral being a pH of 7. Healthy skin is slightly acidic and pH balanced products tend to be acidic to help maintain the skin's natural 'acid mantle', or protective layer.
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Retinol
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Retinol occurs naturally in the body and is a primary form of vitamin A. When applied to the skin, it exfoliates the surface layer, speeds cell renewal, promotes collagen production, and reduces wrinkles.
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Salicylic acid
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An antibacterial, skin softening ingredient that comes from willow bark. A main ingredient in beta hydroxy acids, it helps exfoliate dry, flaky skin and prevent and heal blemishes.
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SPF
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Sun Protection Factor. The number tells you the amount of time it will take your skin to burn with sunscreen compared to the amount of time before you'd burn with no sunscreen. (In other words, an SPF of 8 means you can stay in the sun 8 times as long as you could with no protection on your skin before your skin begins to burn.)
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Toner
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A product used after cleansing to help return skin to its natural pH. Toner helps to remove any remaining traces of cleanser, dirt or debris, and refreshes the skin.
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Vitamin C
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An important anti-oxidant that can help protect skin from environmental damage and UV radiation.
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Vitamin E
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A key anti-oxidant vitamin that helps protect the skin against free radical damage caused by pollution, cigarette smoke and the sun's radiation. It can also help soothe minor irritations and prevent scarring.
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Witch Hazel
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With anti-inflammatory properties, witch hazel is rich in natural tannins that have a mildly astringent effect, helping to tone the skin and reduce puffiness.
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Hair
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Anagen Phase
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The growth phase of the hair cycle. It can vary from two to six years. Approximately 85% of all hairs are in the growing phase at any one time. Hair grows approximately 10cm per year. Individual hairs don't usually grow more than one metre long.
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Catagen Phase
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At the end of the anagen phase hair enters into a catagen phase, a transitional phase which lasts about one or two weeks. During this time the hair follicle shrinks to about a sixth of the normal length. The lower part is destroyed and the dermal papilla breaks away to rest below. On average, 1% of follicles are in the catagen stage.
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Clarifying shampoo
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An acidic shampoo containing lemon juice or cider vinegar that removes the build-up of minerals, conditioners, shampoos, or styling products from the hair.
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Cortex
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The middle layer of the hair, which gives hair both its strength and its texture.
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Cuticle
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The outermost layer of the hair shaft. Thin and colourless, it serves to protect the cortex. The cuticle is made up of tiny overlapping scales. If these scales are unbroken and lie flat, hair looks shiny and smooth. When the cuticles and cortex get damaged it can cause problems such as breakage and split ends.
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Dandruff
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A form of dermatitis caused by an overgrowth of yeast that results in dryness, itchiness, and flaking. Dandruff can afflict oily scalps as well as dry and normal ones.
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Dermal Papilla
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The dermal papilla is at the base of the hair follicle. It contains nerves and blood vessels which supply glucose for energy and amino acids to make keratin, and has receptors for androgens (male hormones that regulate hair growth).
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Diffuser
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A styling aid that can be fitted over the nozzle of your hairdryer to filter and diffuse the heat. It maximises styling control while defining the curl in naturally curly, permed or wavy hair.
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Dry Shampoo
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Usually a water-absorbent powder such as talc and a mild alkali, dry shampoo is placed in the hair and then brushed out, carrying with it any dirt and oil.
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Follicle
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Below the surface of the skin, the follicle contains the hair root.
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Gel
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Gel is available in various strengths and formulations, from thick gels to pump sprays. Use it to style, lift roots, define your curls or tame wispy tendrils.
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Keratin
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Hair is made up of a strong structural protein called keratin. This is the same kind of protein that makes up the nails and the outer layer of skin.
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Medulla
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Only present in large thick hairs, the medulla is the innermost layer of the hair. It is not affected by hair care products or processes.
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Melanin
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The pigment that gives black or brown hair its colour.
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Mousse
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A versatile product that may be applied to dry or wet hair. Mousse is ideal for adding body to fine hair and is a good setting agent for curls.
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Pheomelanin
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The pigment that gives red or yellow hair its colour.
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Serum
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A product that should be used in small amounts to define a style and improve the texture of hair, eliminating frizz.
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Split Ends
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Split ends occur when the hair cuticle is damaged and the fibres of the cortex unravel. Typical causes are chemicals, neglect and harsh treatment. Split ends cannot be mended with conditioner, but need to be cut off to prevent the split from travelling further up the hair shaft.
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Styling Spray
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An all in one product that combines hair spray, setting lotion and gel, and works well with short styles.
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Telogen Phase
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The resting phase of the hair cycle which follows the catagen phase and normally lasts about five to six weeks. During this time the hair does not grow but stays attached to the follicle while the dermal papilla stays in a resting phase below. Approximately 10 to 15 percent of all hairs are in this phase at any one time.
At the end of the telogen phase the anagen phase starts again and a new hair begins to form. If the old hair has not already fallen out, the new hair pushes the old one out and the growth cycle begins again.
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Volumising Spray
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Ideal for adding body to fine hair during blow-drying.
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Bath & Body
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Acupressure
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A massage therapy technique that uses pressure applied to energy points in the body to release tension. This massage manipulates the same points used in acupuncture. Practitioners believe that acupressure massage therapy helps to improve the flow of energy through the body.
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Aloe Vera gel
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A gel derived from the rubbery leaves of the cactus-like aloe vera plant. Renowned for its healing, soothing and moisturising properties, it's useful for minor burns, cuts and grazes, insect bites, sunburn, rashes and skin irritations.
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Arnica
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A herb often used in homeopathic remedies to relieve swelling and soreness and prevent bruising.
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Aromatherapy
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Aromatherapy combines the soothing, healing touch of massage with the therapeutic properties of essential oils. It is a natural, non-invasive treatment system that can have a profound effect on the mind, body and emotions. As a holistic medicine, aromatherapy is designed to affect the whole person, not just the symptom or disease, and assist the body's natural ability to balance, regulate, heal and maintain itself. Aromatherapy can function both preventatively and as an active treatment.
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Avocado Oil
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Contains vitamin E, magnesium and linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid, which helps to strengthen the membranes surrounding skin cells.
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Bergamot
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A refreshing essential oil which has a healing, soothing effect on the skin. It's widely used by aromatherapists to relieve stress, depression and insomnia.
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Butcher's Broom
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A plant which stimulates the circulation and has decongestant and anti-inflammatory properties and a positive effect on varicose veins and blood vessels.
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Calendula
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From the marigold plant, calendula has long been used by homeopaths to help the body naturally heal cuts, scrapes, abrasions and scalds, and to soothe sore or rough skin. Calming and anti-inflammatory, it acts as a mild antiseptic.
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Cellulite
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Lumpiness found in the thighs, hips, and buttocks of many women, which is caused by fat cells trapped within the skin's connective tissue.
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Cocoa Butter
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A rich, waxy, moisturising butter made from the roasted seeds of the cocoa tree.
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Depilatory
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A cream used to chemically dissolve unwanted hair.
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Electrolysis
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A permanent form of hair removal, in which an electric current is used to kill hair at its root.
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Essential Oils
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Essences extracted from plants that contain the scent and other therapeutic properties of the plant.
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Eucalyptus Oil
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From the Australian eucalyptus plant, this oil has anti-inflammatory and decongestant properties. It helps to heal spots and ease muscular aches and pains, has a cooling, purifying effect on the skin, and invigorates the circulation.
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Geranium
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With an uplifting fragrance, geranium helps encourage the elimination of toxins and can help relieve fluid retention.
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Grapefruit
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An uplifting and reviving oil with antiseptic and astringent properties. It is used by aromatherapists to treat congested or oily skins, and to help eliminate toxins and boost the circulation.
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Hydrotherapy
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A generic term for therapeutic spa techniques that use water jets, underwater massage, and mineral baths, like balneotherapy. Hydrotherapy is characterised by the use of the physical properties of water - the temperature and the pressure, for example - in treatment to improve circulation and encourage relaxation.
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Jojoba Oil
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A naturally pH balanced, biodegradable, polyunsaturated oil extracted from the nut of the jojoba shrub, which is native to the North American desert. It helps protect skin against bacterial assault, has superb moisturising, lubricating and healing properties, and helps to enrich and soften the skin.
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Lanolin
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An emollient with moisturising properties, lanolin also acts as an emulsifier with high water-absorbing capabilities. It's completely natural and easily absorbed by the skin but can cause allergic reactions and clog pores.
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Lavender
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A calming oil that is naturally antiseptic and anti-fungal, lavender is excellent for burns and grazes as it helps to heal scar tissue. It also helps ease headaches and encourage restful sleep.
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Moor Mud Therapy
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A skin treatment that uses a moor mud mixture to hydrate and exfoliate.
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Moor/Peat Baths
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A bath treatment using natural peat. Peat is rich in proteins, organic matter, vitamins, and minerals, and when applied helps to ease aches and pains.
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Mud Treatment
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A spa skin treatment that uses mud high in minerals to remove toxins from the body, loosen muscles and improve circulation.
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Neroli
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A floral-scented oil that comes from orange blossom and has uplifting and restorative properties. It is used by aromatherapists to help treat depression, anxiety and insomnia as well as skin conditions such as acne and eczema.
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Patchouli
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A popular skincare ingredient, patchouli has a sweet, spicy, heady fragrance and reviving and stimulating properties. It's used by aromatherapists to help improve circulation, soothe skin and calm stress.
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Rosehip Oil
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An excellent source of readily absorbed vitamins, rosehip oil is renowned for its healing properties. It's rich in fatty acids, making it one of the best plant oils for helping to heal scar tissue and encourage cell regeneration.
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Reflexology
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An ancient Chinese technique that uses massage of specific pressure points on the feet, hands, and ears to encourage energy flow. This massage treatment helps to relieve stress and release energy, and is recommended for recurring ailments such as asthma, headaches, and migraines.
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Rosemary
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With anti-oxidant and invigorating properties, rosemary helps to stimulate the circulation and ease aching muscles.
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Shea butter
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Derived from the fruit of the African karite tree, shea butter has been used for centuries to protect, nourish and moisturise dry skin.
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Sugaring
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A method of hair removal similar to waxing, but the depilatory used is a mixture of sugar and honey. It is more expensive and time-consuming than waxing, but gentler and less painful.
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Sweet Almond
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A milky extract from almonds with emollient properties to help regulate the skin's moisture levels and stabilise its natural pH balance.
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Tea Tree Oil
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A powerful antiseptic, anti-viral and anti-fungal oil from the leaves and twigs of the Australian tree. More effective than household disinfectant at killing germs, the oil is kind to the skin and can be applied neat in small amounts to help treat spots, burns, acne, warts and insect bites.
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Thalassotherapy
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Coming from the Greek word for sea, thalassotherapy is a generic term for a variety of spa treatments that use sea water and/or seaweed. Therapies include
sea water baths that provide underwater massage using water jets; sea water massages with a manual hose; and body wrap treatments using seaweed paste.
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Titanium Dioxide
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Used in non-chemical sunscreen products, titanium dioxide works by physically blocking the sun.
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UV-A
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Ultraviolet light, type A. UV-A rays have the longest wavelength and are the least damaging form of ultraviolet light, although sufficient exposure will cause sunburn. Known as the ageing rays, they reach us at a constant rate all year round and all round the earth.
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UV-B
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Ultraviolet light, type B. UV-B damages proteins if skin is unprotected, and can cause cancer. Known as the burning rays, their levels vary according to the strength of the sun.
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UV-C
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Ultraviolet light, type C. UV-C is extremely dangerous because it can cause mutations in DNA.
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Waxing
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A method of removing unwanted hair by pulling it out at the roots, using hot or cold wax.
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Ylang Ylang
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This oil has a powerfully sweet, rich, heady fragrance which helps to lift the spirits. It's used by aromatherapists to treat oily skin conditions.
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Zinc Oxide
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A filter used in sunscreens to shield the skin from ultraviolet rays.
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Nails
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Buffer
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A tool for polishing nails and smoothing out ridges. It can improve the circulation to the nails, but excessive buffing may thin and weaken the nail.
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Cuticle
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The skin overlapping finger and toe nails, which acts as a protective layer.
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Emery board
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An abrasive tool used for filing nails. Emery boards often have a rough side for shaping and a finer side for smoothing.
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Eponychium
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Another name for the cuticle.
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Hyponychium
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The area between the nail plate and the fingertip, where the free edge of the nail joins the skin of the fingertip.
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Keratin
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The protein that makes up nails, as well as skin and hair.
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Lunula
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This pale half-moon shape at the base of the nail, usually most pronounced on the thumb, is the edge of the matrix.
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Matrix
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The hidden part of the nail under the cuticle where growth takes place.
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Nail Bed
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The skin beneath the nail plate.
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Nail Plate
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The visible part of the nail on fingers and toes. Made of translucent keratin, its pink appearance comes from the blood vessels underneath the nail.
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Orange stick
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A wooden stick used for gently pushing back the cuticles.
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Perionychium
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The skin at the sides of the nail plate, also known as the paronychial edge. The perionychium is where hangnails and ingrown nails can occur.
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Colour Cosmetics
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Blusher
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May come in powder, cream or gel form. Blusher gives you a healthy glow and is used to contour the face and accentuate cheekbones.
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Bronzer
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Like blusher, bronzer can be in powder, cream or gel form and is used for shaping the face and adding colour. It gives a tanned look and may incorporate shimmer to impart a sun-kissed glow.
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Brow definer
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A powder or pencil that adds colour to the brows. It can help improve the shape and symmetry of the brows, darken and define light brows or fill in gaps.
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Brow gel
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A clear gel that is stroked through the eyebrows to tame unruly hairs for a more groomed look.
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Colour corrector
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A liquid, powder or concealer-style stick designed to neutralise unwanted pigment. When applied properly, colour correctors look colourless on the skin. Common colours are green, to counteract redness; yellow, to add warmth and a soft glow to pale skin and reduce redness in warm skin tones; and lilac, to warm a sallow skin tone and minimise dark shadows under the eyes.
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Concealer
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More concentrated than foundation, concealer is designed for application on specific areas to hide flaws and blemishes such as spots or under-eye circles.
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Eyeliner
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Used to outline, accentuate and define the eyes. Liquid eyeliner can give a strong, dramatic and more glamorous look, whereas eyeliner pencils tend to produce a softer effect.
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Eyeshadow
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A coloured powder or cream that contours and emphasises the eyes, complementing their colour and shape.
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Foundation
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Also known as base, foundation is available in a huge variety of formulations to suit all skin types. Lightweight, sheer foundations will even out differences in texture or colour without hiding the real look of skin. If you need more coverage, try a solid, cream or stick foundation. Oil-free formulas are ideal for oily or combination skins, or for use in the summertime to help prevent your make-up from sliding. Moisturising foundations are a better bet if you have dry skin. Foundation should match your natural skin tone as closely as possible, blending invisibly into your skin. It should not add colour to your face; that is the job of blusher or bronzer.
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Lip gloss
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A coloured or clear lip shine that can be worn alone or over lipstick to give your lips a glossy look. |
Lip liner
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Outlining your lips with a lip pencil before filling in with colour helps to define them more clearly and prevent lipstick from feathering or bleeding.
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Lipstick
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Lip colour that may come in stick form or in a palette for use with a lip brush.
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Mascara
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Lengthens and thickens lashes for improved eye definition.
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Powder
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Wear on its own or over concealer and/ or foundation to set your make-up and prevent shine. Powder can be loose (dust on then remove excess with a large brush for a professional finish), or pressed in compact form, ideal for touch-ups on the move.
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